alright quickie update for myself (future reference) and for those as care - or say they do :)

i am BURNT as FUCK.

that day after my last blog entry? surfed for 5 hours straight.... but without a wetsuit or sunblock

as i sit here my face is peeling, and my back itches like fuck.


but i caught some GREAT waves that day.

PLUS PLUS PLUS: did my first real trick - albeit inadvertently. get this : a front flip. that's a somersault ON THE BOARD ( this was while i was bodyboarding - similar to surfing, just that u lie down) anw i was with aaron and we both caught a real ripper.... so we're riding it in and he looks to his right and sees (this's wat he said later) my head disappear, then my whole body catapault outta the water with me legs describing an arc whilst kicking as if swimming. pretty damn cool. like i said, the first time was luck. but i got the knack of it afterwards... even repeated it on my surfboard. the trick is to catch the wave, then when you're riding it in, push the nose down like u would to pick up speed, but push it down REAL hard. if u catch the wave a bit too soon it works best - the wave pushes u under and u kinda pop back up.

wayyyy cool :)


missing you a fair bit. why aren't we ever online at the same time?!! as u said, -big bear hug- -if u read this.

its good that *you managed to make it online at the same time as me for once though. rare occasion :)


ah well the time is drawing to an end. there's heaps more to say, but if i stick arnd to say it i'll wake up late tomorrow and waste the day. so adieu ya'll.